On another rainy day, we are nestled into Shambhala (link to site), just outside Takaka on Golden Bay. We spent the night at Totaranui Beach camping but were woken by wild winds at about 4:00 a.m. that still haven’t let up. The view from our room is attached below.We plan on doing an Irish jig and downing some pints of green beer tonight at the popular Mussel Inn. Our first night “out” in weeks. Drew’s pretty darn excited. I hope the glow worms can guide us back in the dark to Shambhala.
Good luck on your driving test Mira.
We probably should have backed out when they read us the forecast but we plunged right into a five-day kayak along the coast of Abel Tasman National Park, one of New Zealand’s smallest and most popular. Kirk has kayaked in Croatia and along B.C.’s West Coast but the wild winds and rain of Abel Tasman tested her nerves, and pumped Drew’s adrenalin.
Our first day out was one of our most beautiful – blue skies, golden beaches, and playful seals around Adele Island. When we woke the next morning at Observation Beach, the stage would be set for the next four days: rain and wind. Regardless, we stayed positive, enjoyed our tent casino, and when the rain let up, explored the lagoons of Sandfly and Frenchman’s Bay at high tide, the seal colony at Tonga Island, and wave riding in Bark’s Bay. The beauty of travelling via kayak is you don’t have to pack light: we enjoyed good food and a few beverages. And, the tent we inherited from the Germans is proving reliable – no leaks and no collapses.
As the locals advised us, just take your time; explore; don’t be in a rush. We did just that.
After the QCT, we headed to Nelson, a bustling city of artists, sailors and hippies. Our first stop was the holiday home of mom and dad’s customer Elizabeth Barry and her partner Don. Elizabeth was kind enough to let Kirk use her address as a place for Visa International to send her new credit card – long story not worth getting into. Elizabeth treated us to an amazing dinner of fresh gurnard (which is quickly becoming our favourite fish over here), local vegetables and cliff-side view of Golden Bay and the headlands of Abel Tasman National Park.For five days, we pitched our tent at the best-kept Nelson camping secret: McKee Memorial camp ground, right on the water’s edge.
Photos from the cliffs surrounding Elizabeth’s holiday home and sunset and sunrise from McKee.
From March 3 to 6, we hiked the Queen Charlotte Track, one of New Zealand’s easiest Great Walks through the Marlborough Sounds – the same region where the Lazy Fish is located. I say ‘easiest’ as our backpacks were ferried each day by the local water taxi service – all we had to do was pick them up at the end of the jetty and take them to our campsites. Because we’d been working at the Fish, we got a two for one deal on the backpack transfers making the hike even more attractive.
We walked the QCT over four days: Ship Cove to Punga Cove (26 km), Punga to Portage Bay (23 km – Kirk’s worst day), a leisurely Portage to Mistletoe Bay (10 km), and a final stroll hand-in-hand from Mistletoe to Anakiwa (8 km), the end of the QCT and home of New Zealand’s Outward Bound School (make link?). The under-the-table beers and blueberry muffin from the Blister’d Feet cafÈ were more than appreciated.
The weather was perfect; the possums were in fine form (they shriek death calls at night); the views were turquoise bays, long jetties, sailboats, and tree-topped hills; Drew’s hiking outfit of plaid knee-length shorts and black socks pulled up his calves (aka Hancock) did the British proud; and the forests of giant fern trees were a relief to walk through during the hot afternoons.
We left the Fish on March 3. It was hugs on the jetty goodbye from Chris the owner, Jeff the chef, Kirsty no. 2, Jenny from Takaka, wwoofers Stuart and Emma from Scotland and England, and Tom. We were headed to hike the Queen Charlotte Track. We’ll miss it.
Two photos: Kirk ‘telephishing’ and Drew’s big gurnard catch.
The End of Food by Thomas Pawlick
Robinson Crusoe
Dirk Gently’s Holistic Detective Agency By Douglas Adams
The Green Man by Kingsley Amis
In Patagonia by Bruce Chatwin
Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance by Robert Pirsig
The Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan
Stark by Ben Elton
